Karakalpakstan and the Sea That Vanished — 11 Days

Because it should not exist. Igor Savitsky spent the 1960s and 70s buying up Russian avant-garde work that was banned in Moscow and shipping it to Nukus, a closed desert town nobody in the Ministry of Culture was watching. The result is the second-largest collection of that art anywhere in the world, hanging two thousand kilometres from where most of it was painted.

Two long 4x4 days on rough tracks, a night in a shared yurt with washrooms in a separate block, and an early start for sunrise. There is no walking that is difficult, but the driving is tiring and there is nothing between stops. If you have back problems, tell us and we will seat you in front.

April to early June and September to early November are the two sweet spots: 20–28°C, clear light on the tilework, and fruit in the bazaars. July and August regularly pass 40°C, so summer departures start earlier and keep the middle of the day for museums and lunch. Winter is cold but empty — Registan without a crowd is worth the coat.

Citizens of most of Europe, the UK, Japan, South Korea, Israel, Turkey and much of Latin America enter visa-free for 30 days. Everyone else can apply online at e-visa.gov.uz, which takes two to three working days. Your passport must be valid for six months beyond the date you arrive. We will confirm what applies to your nationality when you book.

US citizens do not need a visa since January 1, 2026 — visa-free entry for stays up to 30 days, with a passport valid for at least 6 months from arrival. Citizens of most EU countries and the UK also enter visa-free. If your nationality is not covered, an e-visa is issued online; we confirm the exact requirement for your passport when you book.

Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal: 15-28°C, clear skies, and the busiest monuments still workable in the mornings. Summer (June-August) regularly passes 40°C — tours still run, with early starts and shaded afternoons. Winter (December-February) is cold, quiet and cheap.

The currency is the Uzbek som (UZS). Cards are accepted in most hotels, larger restaurants and supermarkets in Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, but bazaars, craft workshops and taxis are cash-first. ATMs issuing som are common in the cities on our routes; bring some crisp USD or EUR notes as backup.

Sharply continental: hot, dry summers (35-40°C in July), cold winters (often below 0°C at night), and mild springs and autumns. Rain is rare outside March-April. The dry heat is easier to handle than the numbers suggest — but summer sightseeing is planned around it, not through it.

Yes. The US Department of State lists Uzbekistan at Level 1 — its lowest advisory level, shared with most of Western Europe. Petty crime is rare in tourist areas. You get a 24/7 local emergency contact for the whole trip.

Yes. Local SIM cards (Beeline, Ucell, Mobiuz) cost a few dollars for generous data and are sold at the airport and in city offices — bring your passport for registration. eSIM options work too. Hotels on our routes have Wi-Fi; expect it to be slower than at home.

Your hotel does it for you. Every night in a hotel or guesthouse produces a small registration slip; keep them together until you leave. Only if you stay in a private home or an unregistered rental do you need to register yourself, at the local State Migration Service office within three days. Every night on our trips is in registered accommodation.

Not in the way it is in Europe or the United States — nothing is calculated as a percentage and nothing is added to a bill automatically. Rounding up in a restaurant is normal. For a guide or driver who has looked after you well, a tip at the end of the trip is genuinely appreciated and entirely your call; we will never put a suggested figure in your documents.

No. Bottled or filtered water only, including for brushing teeth if your stomach is sensitive. Bottled water is provided on the bus every day of the trip, and refills at hotels are free — you should not be buying your own drinking water.

Uzbekistan is secular and dress is relaxed; nobody expects a head covering in the street. At working mosques and mausoleums, women cover their hair with a scarf and everyone keeps shoulders and knees covered. Beyond that: shoes you can walk on uneven stone in all day, sun protection between April and October, and a warm layer for evenings in spring and autumn, when the temperature drops fast after dark.

Western sit-down toilets in hotels, restaurants and the high-speed trains. Squat toilets are still common at roadside stops, small museums and bazaars. Carry tissues and hand gel — the roadside ones rarely have either.

Yes, and it is a condition of joining any of our trips. Cover must include medical treatment and emergency repatriation; we recommend it also covers cancellation. We ask for your policy number and the insurer emergency line before departure, and we do not check what you paid — only that you are covered.

Honestly: difficult in places. The old towns are cobbled and uneven, many monuments have steps and high thresholds that cannot be altered, and dropped kerbs are inconsistent outside central Tashkent. None of that makes a trip impossible — we have run private itineraries with a slower pace, a dedicated vehicle and sites chosen for step-free access. Tell us what you need before you book and we will tell you plainly what works and what does not.