Kunya-Urgench, white-marble Ashgabat and the ruins of Merv
A four-day crossing from Khiva into Turkmenistan: the Kunya-Urgench minarets, the marble capital at Ashgabat, Parthian Nisa and the vast ruined city of Merv.
Turkmenistan is the least-visited country in Central Asia and the strangest, and this add-on gets you the three things worth crossing the border for.
Kunya-Urgench was the Khorezmian capital until Genghis Khan destroyed it; the mausoleums and the 62-metre minaret that survived are the reason it is on the UNESCO list. Merv, further south, was at one point in the twelfth century among the largest cities in the world — today it is a landscape of eroded walls and one perfect brick mausoleum, standing in an empty plain.
Between them sits Ashgabat, rebuilt after 1948 and then rebuilt again in white marble, a capital that looks like an architectural rendering of itself.
This leg starts in Khiva and is designed to follow one of our Uzbekistan routes. The Shavat border is crossed on foot.
Route & itinerary
Route
Khiva → Ashgabat
Drive 65 km to the Shavat crossing and walk the 800 metres between the two posts. Met on the Turkmen side, then 125 km to the Kunya-Urgench historical park: the Ak Gala fortress walls, the mausoleums of Turabek Khanym, Il Arslan, Tekesh and Sultan Ali, the shrine of the Sufi master Najmeddin Kubra, and the Kutlug Timur minaret — 62 metres of brickwork and the tallest in Central Asia. Lunch box on site, then back to Dashoguz for the flight to Ashgabat.
Out to Nisa first: founded in the third century BC, the royal residence of the Parthian kings, and a UNESCO site of raw earth walls that read as landscape until your guide draws the plan for you. Lunch, then Ashgabat itself — the Neutrality arch, the Ertogrul Gazi mosque, the carpet museum, Gulistan bazaar, the Akhal-Teke horse monument, Independence park and the Turkmenbashi mosque.
South to Mary, with a stop at the Akhal-Teke stables — the horse breed Turkmenistan puts on its banknotes. Then ancient Merv: the Sultan Sanjar mausoleum standing alone in the plain, the Great and Little Gyz Gala, Erk Gala, Gyaur Gala and the Muhammad ibn Zaid shrine, spread across a site so large you drive between the parts of it. Lunch in Mary, then the evening flight back to Ashgabat.
Breakfast, then a transfer to Ashgabat airport for your onward flight.
Inclusions & activities
Khiva · Ashgabat
Breakfast · Lunch
Private vehicle · Domestic flight · Walking
4* hotel in Ashgabat
Read this first
Turkmenistan needs a letter of invitation, and we need your documents 30 days before the trip: a passport scan under 1 MB, a completed visa enquiry form, your international ticket booking with the PNR, an employer letter in English (not needed if you are retired) and two 3x4 photographs. The visa itself is issued at the border.
Bring US dollars in cash for personal spending. Euros and credit cards are not usable in Turkmenistan.
The Shavat border crossing is done on foot over 800–1000 metres and there are no porters.
It is paperwork rather than luck — a tourist visa on a letter of invitation is routinely granted when you travel with a licensed local operator, which is the only way tourists can enter. Send us your documents 30 days ahead and we handle the invitation, registration and travel pass. The visa fee and migration card are paid in cash US dollars at the border.
If you like ruins that require imagination, it is one of the great sites of Asia — five walled cities built beside one another over two thousand years, still visible as earthworks across sixty square kilometres. If you want intact tilework, Uzbekistan gives you far more per hour.
Yes. Solo travellers pay a single supplement for their own room, which we quote with the trip. On group departures we do not pair strangers in a room unless both of you ask us to.
US citizens do not need a visa since January 1, 2026 — visa-free entry for stays up to 30 days, with a passport valid for at least 6 months from arrival. Citizens of most EU countries and the UK also enter visa-free. If your nationality is not covered, an e-visa is issued online; we confirm the exact requirement for your passport when you book.
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal: 15-28°C, clear skies, and the busiest monuments still workable in the mornings. Summer (June-August) regularly passes 40°C — tours still run, with early starts and shaded afternoons. Winter (December-February) is cold, quiet and cheap.
The currency is the Uzbek som (UZS). Cards are accepted in most hotels, larger restaurants and supermarkets in Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, but bazaars, craft workshops and taxis are cash-first. ATMs issuing som are common in the cities on our routes; bring some crisp USD or EUR notes as backup.
Sharply continental: hot, dry summers (35-40°C in July), cold winters (often below 0°C at night), and mild springs and autumns. Rain is rare outside March-April. The dry heat is easier to handle than the numbers suggest — but summer sightseeing is planned around it, not through it.
Yes. The US Department of State lists Uzbekistan at Level 1 — its lowest advisory level, shared with most of Western Europe. Petty crime is rare in tourist areas. You get a 24/7 local emergency contact for the whole trip.
Yes. Local SIM cards (Beeline, Ucell, Mobiuz) cost a few dollars for generous data and are sold at the airport and in city offices — bring your passport for registration. eSIM options work too. Hotels on our routes have Wi-Fi; expect it to be slower than at home.
Your hotel does it for you. Every night in a hotel or guesthouse produces a small registration slip; keep them together until you leave. Only if you stay in a private home or an unregistered rental do you need to register yourself, at the local State Migration Service office within three days. Every night on our trips is in registered accommodation.
Not in the way it is in Europe or the United States — nothing is calculated as a percentage and nothing is added to a bill automatically. Rounding up in a restaurant is normal. For a guide or driver who has looked after you well, a tip at the end of the trip is genuinely appreciated and entirely your call; we will never put a suggested figure in your documents.
No. Bottled or filtered water only, including for brushing teeth if your stomach is sensitive. Bottled water is provided on the bus every day of the trip, and refills at hotels are free — you should not be buying your own drinking water.
Uzbekistan is secular and dress is relaxed; nobody expects a head covering in the street. At working mosques and mausoleums, women cover their hair with a scarf and everyone keeps shoulders and knees covered. Beyond that: shoes you can walk on uneven stone in all day, sun protection between April and October, and a warm layer for evenings in spring and autumn, when the temperature drops fast after dark.
Western sit-down toilets in hotels, restaurants and the high-speed trains. Squat toilets are still common at roadside stops, small museums and bazaars. Carry tissues and hand gel — the roadside ones rarely have either.
Yes, and it is a condition of joining any of our trips. Cover must include medical treatment and emergency repatriation; we recommend it also covers cancellation. We ask for your policy number and the insurer emergency line before departure, and we do not check what you paid — only that you are covered.
Honestly: difficult in places. The old towns are cobbled and uneven, many monuments have steps and high thresholds that cannot be altered, and dropped kerbs are inconsistent outside central Tashkent. None of that makes a trip impossible — we have run private itineraries with a slower pace, a dedicated vehicle and sites chosen for step-free access. Tell us what you need before you book and we will tell you plainly what works and what does not.
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